对于Iniye Tokyo James来说,过去两年就像坐过山车一样。作为一个品牌,我们一直在追求众所周知的火爆时刻。这一路走来并不容易,但我们一直在努力,他说到这段时期,他获得了2022年路威酩轩奖(LVMH Prize)的提名,并在《墙纸》(Wallpaper) 2022年9月刊的新男装设计师作品集中看到了他的特色。这位尼日利亚裔英国设计师于2015年创立了自己的同名品牌;他的目的是让自己的遗产在视觉上有意义,并提出两个看似对立的地点之间的对话。衣服有不成文的沟通方式。当我刚开始的时候,这是关于表现;为从未真正有过发言权的创作者发声。詹姆斯最出名的或许是他的裁缝,他将萨维尔街的精准与植根于尼日利亚的纺织品、调色板、轮廓和图案融合在一起;想想看,单排扣的蕾丝运动上衣和用复杂的爬行动物、两栖动物和昆虫刺绣的外套。正是这些细微的差别,让我们都热爱,让我们走到一起。他说。Tokyo James是New Blooms’ New Blooms’的一部分,New Blooms’是六个崭露头角的男装品牌重新播种时尚版图的概况;《墙纸》杂志2022年9月刊(W*281)拉各斯的工作室还展示了一个地下人才孵化器,拥有下一代设计师、摄影师、造型师和一个另类模特经纪公司,所有人都在这里以不同的能力运作。
For Iniye Tokyo James, the last two years have been a rollercoaster. ‘As a brand we have been going for the proverbial hot minute. It hasn’t been an easy ride, but we keep pushing,’ he says of the period, which peaked with a nomination for the 2022 LVMH Prize, and sees him feature in our portfolio of emerging menswear designers in the September 2022 Style Issue of Wallpaper*.The Nigerian-British designer founded his eponymous line in 2015; his aim was to make visual sense of his own heritage and propose a dialogue between two seemingly opposing locations. ‘Clothes have unwritten ways of communicating. When I initially started it was about representation; giving a voice to a sector of creators who never really had a voice.’James is perhaps best known for his tailoring, which melds Savile Row precision with textiles, palettes, silhouettes, and motifs that are rooted in Nigeria – think single-breasted blazers in corded lace and coats finished with intricate embroidery of reptiles, amphibians and insects. ‘It is those little nuances that we all love and bring us together,’ he says.New menswear: Tokyo James A/W 2022 Tokyo James is part of ‘New Blooms’, a profile of ‘six budding menswear labels resowing the fashion landscape’ in Wallpaper’s September 2022 Style Issue (W*281)A visit to James’ studio in Lagos also reveals an underground talent incubator with next-generation designers, photographers, stylists and an alternative modelling agency, all operating in various capacities from the premises. ‘We have always been about community-building. For us, luxury is an emotion but more importantly, it is about people.’